September lawn and gardening tips
Clemson Extension Service
Watch out for:
Lawns
Lawn diseases: Continue watching for problems with brown patch and dollar spot in warm season grasses, especially if you had problems with one of them last year.
Spittle bugs: Watch for spittlebugs in warm season lawns and on hollies.
White grubs: The bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis does a nice job on Japanese Beetle grubs, but it does take a little time to build up in the soil. Bacillus thuringiensis does not, however, control other types of grubs.
Trees and shrubs
Webworms: Fall webworms should be appearing in pecan trees in mid- to late-August. Controlling the bottom third of the tree will be quite effective, even though we cannot reach the upper areas. Carbaryl (Sevin, etc.) is a good product for this. Observe all label precautions on mixing and use. Do not use dusts due to the problem with application; a spray made using the liquid form of the product will work fine.
Vegetables
Blossom end rot: Check your late tomatoes for blossom end rot on the fruit as it begins to form. This is usually an indication of a calcium deficiency. Place a handful of gypsum (land plaster) in the soil beside the tomato at planting (or later) to prevent this. Foliar sprays such as blossom end rot spray will also help alleviate the problem. Nothing will “heal” the fruit with rot on it, so remove and discard them.
Things to do:
Flowers
Bulbs: It’s time to buy your spring-flowering bulbs, such as daffodils, tulips, hyacinths and crocus. Don’t plant them yet, but wait for cooler weather. Store them in a cool place where temperatures will be 60 degrees F or lower.
Dividing: It’s time to divide spring and summer blooming perennials.
Soil Test: Now is the time to test the soil in your planned beds for plant nutrients. Soil tests usually take 10 days, so test now to have the results when you plant bulbs and beds. It is important to till in the lime needed (if any) for faster soil pH adjustment. You may also sample your vegetable garden now if you do not plan to add more fertilizer for late crops.
Lawns
Fertilizer: It’s time for the second application of fertilizer for fescue and other cool-season grass lawns. Follow the recommendations on your soil test report for your lawn. DON’T fertilize warm-season grass lawns late in the fall. If you have not soil-tested your lawn areas in the past 12 months, now is a great time!
Add iron: Applying iron to St. Augustine this month will provide dark green color without stimulating excessive growth.
Aeration: Fall is a great time to aerate cool season lawns such as fescue. Warm-season lawns (centipede, zoysia, Bermuda, St. Augustine) should be aerated in the spring and summer.
Overseeding: Many homeowners like to overseed their lawns with ryegrass for a green winter lawn. Mid-September is the best time to do this.
Lawn establishment: If you plan to plant a cool-season (fescue) lawn, the best time to plant is between Sept. 15 and Oct. 15. Wait until next spring for warm-season grasses. Unhulled Bermuda seed can be planted now, but spring planting of hulled seed will provide a better stand.
Henbit: This nice little lawn weed can be a problem. Treat now to prevent its return this summer.
Nutsedge or “nutgrass”: Nutsedge is very difficult to control. There are two main types in our area, purple and yellow. You must identify which you have before you begin treatment. Herbicides must be applied when the nutsedge is actively growing, which means decent soil moisture and warm conditions.
Irrigation: As this month progresses you will probably need to cut back on your irrigation amounts.
Ponds
Pond stocking: September though January are good months to stock bream in a fishing pond.
Pond liming: September though January are also good times to lime the pond bottom if necessary.
